To get to the start, turn into Makaretu road, off SH50 in Central Hawke’s Bay. Continue down Makaretu road towards the mountains until you reach Sherwood School – directly opposite, turn left into Mill road. Mill road eventually changes from tar-seal to gravel, and a while further on, as the road climbs up a steep rise, turn left into Kashmir road. At the time of writing, the name sign had disappeared, but there is a green and yellow DOC direction sign on the left as well. Just past Kashmir Farm, you’ll get to a sign stating that 4wd is required, and it becomes quite obvious part way up the very steep rise as to why this is so! Take care, as there are deep ruts and potholes most of the way from this point on. A few km further you’ll see a sign pointing to the Daphne car park on the right – turn down here, and shortly you’ll reach the shelter and info panel at the start of the track.

Shortly after the start the track crosses Moorcock Stream, and then follows it on the true left for another 300m or so before turning towards the mountains, across a small tributary stream, and then steeply up the mountainside through low scrub. Up to this point the track is marked by white-topped fence posts, which changes to orange triangles as the trees become tall enough to attach them to. The higher one goes, the better the views get – stop often, and look back – the outlook keeps changing, and it’s hard not to linger for less than 5 minutes. Never mind, always another opportunity on the way back.

About 50 minutes after setting off, you’ll arrive at the forest edge, and from here on to the ridge the walking is in bush. On a hot day it makes for a very pleasant change. About 5 minutes later the track levels out, and turns sharp left and down a dip. You have not arrived at the top! This is a small subsidiary ridge running parallel to the main one, and on the other side of the dip it’s once again steeply upwards. After approx. another 50 minutes, you’ll finally arrive at a signposted track junction on top of the ridge. We usually have a breather here for 5 or 10 minutes, and a snack. To the left is the track to Longview over the tops –  it’s worth the short walk down to the bush edge, and note the sudden change from trees to tussock. This is also a great hike, but that’s another article! To the right is the correct way and initially the track undulates for a while across the ridge top before starting to drop – gently at first, but then quite steeply. Look out for clearings to the left, where there are some great views to be had of the main Ruahine Range. On a fine, clear day, those with sharp eyes (or binoculars) will be able to make out the Howlett’s hut toilet block.

Eventually you’ll notice the sound of rushing water, a sign that theTukituki River’s not far away. The last bit before the river is quite steep, and takes a bit of care to negotiate. Once on the river bank, note that the stream coming in immediately from the left is not the Tukituki – we did that once, and it cost us about 45 minutes tramping in cold water to realise our error. However, if you have the time, go up anyway, as there’s a lovely waterfall about 15 minutes away. Some great photo opportunities if the light’s right.

Back at the Tukituki, for the trout aficionados there are a few nice pools at this point to try your luck. Otherwise from here it’s another 30 minutes of river tramping upstream before Daphne hut suddenly appears on the right. Don’t try and keep your feet dry by rock-hopping – it’s very dangerous, and it won’t work. You will get wet boots & feet, and it’s just better to accept and enjoy the experience. On a hot summer’s day it’s quite refreshing! A walking pole or stick will make the river part easier and safer. Walking time from the car park to the hut should take approx. 4 hours.

Daphne hut is a cosy A-frame affair with an interesting layout, including a mezzanine sleeping platform – great fun for the young, or young at heart. It has sufficient sleeping space for nominally 12 persons, but there are a few extra mattresses available, and it’s not difficult to squeeze a few more in. There is an outside covered deck on the left side of the hut for boots and gear, or to sleep on/under if the hut’s full. On the right side of the hut is the wood pile. The hut has a very efficient wood-burner, which quickly warms the interior up to a nice temperature on a cold day. Please remember to take some old newspapers along to start a fire with, and replace the wood you use. There’s an outside toilet, as well as a meat safe for hunters. It also has an inside sink bench, but no water tank – plenty of water in the river!

To get back to the start, return the way you came. Going in the opposite direction does give one a different perspective, and then there’s the final drop down to the car park to look forward to. All in all a satisfying, grunty tramp, where you’ll know you’ve had some good exercise!

Depending on where you came from, drop into the General Store at Onga Onga for a cuppa and a bite. For something a bit more substantial, there’s also a tavern/pub available just up the road.

Important notes:

• Be prepared! Take clothing and provisions for all weather possibilities – the weather can change in a matter of an hour from beautiful sunshine and warm temperatures, to snow and sub-zero temperatures.
• Check the weather forecast – don’t do this tramp just after heavy rain, or if heavy rain is forecast, as rivers quickly rise to dangerous levels. If you do get caught out, stay put and wait until the river drops to a safe level.
• Good to very good fitness required (especially if done as a day walk) – at least 8 to 9 hours total walking required (from the car park return), with an altitude gain of 600m one way, and the same back.
• Suitable for children from 10 years and over (suggest overnight only).
• Tell someone where you’re going, and what time to expect you back.
• Fill in the hut visitor’s books – it could save your life.
• Take a map – NZ Topographical map BL36 Norsewood refers, which can be purchased from Sportsworld or Dave Hern in Waipukurau.
• There is a small charge for staying overnight at this hut – tickets available from the I-site in Waipukurau, or the General Store in Onga Onga.

Top Maropea Hut is completely different to Sunrise Hut – it’s a lot smaller (6 bunks, compared to 24 for Sunrise Hut), and is a restored old Forest Service type hut. However, for tramping satisfaction, this is the real deal – it is miles away from anywhere, and gives one that real sense of isolation, as there is no sign or view of civilisation or environmental modification in any direction.

You can do this walk as a long day hike (only for the fit/very fit!), or preferably as an overnight excursion. Total walking time from Sunrise Hut is between 1 and 1.5 hours there, and at least 1.5 hours back.  These times should be added to those from the car park to Sunrise Hut, to arrive at total walking time for the journey. The best time to do this hike is on a clear, sunny, day. If, at the car park, you see clouds rolling over the tops from the west, perhaps consider just going as far as Sunrise Hut, as it’s almost guaranteed to be blowing a strong gale on the tops, often so strong that it’s hard to remain standing.

From Sunrise Hut, walk up behind the hut onto the ridge, turn right, and follow the well defined track up to Armstrong Saddle. Take a short break here, look back to Sunrise Hut and marvel at the expansive views before you. At the saddle, the track veers left up the ridge, and follows it for about 15 minutes. As you go along, views to the west open up, and if it’s a clear day, you might see the snow-capped volcanic peaks of Ruapehu and Ngaruhoe before you. I found it very hard not to stop and marvel at the views – it’s a 360 degree paradise that I just can’t get enough of. Photo opportunities are endless!

A short distance further down the track a signpost appears – turn right here. The track immediately starts dropping down a spur into a valley, and subsequently into the bush. Take extra care from here on, as the track becomes quite steep, and it’s not hard to trip or slip. A short while later the bright orange hut suddenly appears out of the bush – a welcome sight for the weary. It’s a comfortable, if small, hut with individual bunks and mattresses, an open fireplace, and has an outside toilet and water tank. Heaps of character! There is also a clearing near the hut for tents, if the hut is full.

The return walk to Sunrise is regrettably back up the steep track, but as going in the opposite direction gives one a totally different perspective on the surroundings, it feels quite new and fresh, and I hardly noticed the effort required to get back to the signpost. Again, many opportunities present themselves to take photos, or just drink in the views.

This hike absolutely stands out in my mind as one which is unforgettable, and which I will do again a number of times.

On your way home, as for the Sunrise Hut hike, do stop at the historic General Store in Onga Onga for the traditional (ours) cuppa and muffin! That latte really tastes better after a solid, satisfying hike as long as this one!

Important notes:

• Be prepared! Take clothing and provisions for all weather possibilities – the weather can change in a matter of an hour from beautiful sunshine and warm temperatures, to snow and sub-zero temperatures.
• Good to very good fitness required – at least 7 to 9 hours total walking required (from the car park), with an altitude gain of 800m.
• Suitable for children from about 10 years and over.
• Tell someone where you’re going, and what time to expect you back.
• Fill in the hut visitor’s books – it could save your life.
• Take a map – NZ Topographical map BK36 Taoroa Junction refers, which can be purchased from Sportsworld or Dave Hern in Waipukurau.
• There is a small charge for staying overnight at this hut – tickets available from the I-site in Waipukurau, or the General Store in Onga Onga.

The start is at a well-signposted car park near the end of North Block Rd. The easiest way to get there is from SH50 in Central Hawke’s Bay. Turn down Wakarara Rd, towards the mountains, and follow this for about 22km, then turn left into North Block Rd. About 4km further on you’ll get to the intersection with Carsons Rd – keep right, and continue on until you arrive at a farm gate, the first of three. Please leave gates as you find them, as the road passes through a working farm. The car park is about 0.5km after the third gate.

There is a toilet and a very useful information panel at the car park – well worth looking at (the sign, that is!). The start is over a stile just to the right of the panel, after which you follow an indistinct farm track for about 10 minutes, before arriving at another stile, which is the boundary of the Ruahine Forest Park. A couple of minutes after this you arrive at a track junction; to the left, the Swamp Track loop, to the right, to Triplex Hut, and straight on, the Sunrise track proper. If you have some time to spare, pop into Triplex hut for a look-see – it’s only a minute’s walk from the junction.

From the junction, the Sunrisetrack dips down towards a stream bridge, and then starts its relentless upward climb on a wide, metalled and benched track. It is a pleasure to walk on, and other than the fact that it’s relentlessly uphill, poses no real dangers to the moderately fit hiker. A short while after the bridge another track junction is reached, where the other end of the Swamp Track loop joins up with the Sunrisetrack – keep right here. As you climb higher, keep an eye out for the occasional view points through the trees. Eventually the track levels out, and about an hour’s walking time after leaving the car park, another track junction is reached, with a bench seat. It’s a great place for a snack or drink, and to contemplate the beauty of the surroundings. The seat was erected by the Central Hawke’s Bay branch of Forest & Bird in honour of one of their long serving members.

Ignore the track going off left to Waipawa Forks hut, and carry straight on, upwards, once again! Along this section there are some good viewpoints towards the east, as well as to the forested spur across the valley. Note how the vegetation starts changing the higher you climb – the lush bush starts giving way to horopito and mountain beech, and the canopy becomes lower and lower as you continue. About 1.5 hours after leaving the junction, one suddenly emerges from the bush onto Buttercup Hollow, and Sunrise Hut. There are superbly grand views from here, well worth a lingering break to take in their grandeur. Once you’ve had a good look and taken some photos, the hut’s a nice place to relax for a while, and enjoy lunch. Then take the opportunity to pop up a short rise behind the hut onto the ridge. There even more grand views open up. If the weather’s clear, the main Ruanhine range lies before you, across a valley forming the headwaters of the Waipawa River.

In winter the tops are covered in snow, and the beauty is breathtaking. I’ve had the good fortune to tramp up to Sunrisehut in snow a number of times, which really adds to the experience. However, if there’s a strong gale blowing on the tops, the wind-chill factor demands that you get inside the hut as soon as possible, both for comfort and for safety. If the weather’s clear, and wind is not an issue, take a 15 – 20 minute stroll to Armstrong Saddle. The track starts up behind the hut, to the right. From the saddle you can see Ruapehu and Tongariro on a clear day, and enjoy even more great views back towards Sunrise hut and the main range. There’s also a very large slip into the Waipawa headwaters, worth a look. Photography opportunities abound!

The hut itself is quite a large one, with bunks for 24 people. It is also the most popular hut in the Ruahine Forest Park, and can consequently be quite full and busy.  It has an outside toilet, water tank, and gas heating and cooking facilities. It’s a great place to bring the kids for their first overnight hike, as it’s walkable in most weather conditions.

Once you’ve had your fill of what this place has on offer, the walk back to the car will take you an easy 2 hours or so. If not, there’s always the option of staying overnight, and rising early to catch the sunrise after which the hut was named. Note that there’s a charge for this, and that hut tickets can be purchased at the I-site in Waipukurau or at the Onga Onga General Store.

On your way home, take the time to stop at the historic General Store in Onga Onga for a cuppa and a muffin – we’ve made this into a tradition whenever we’ve been for a hike in this part of the Ruahine Range, and it’s one we hope to maintain – somehow a good latte just tastes even better after a solid, satisfying tramp!

Important notes:

• Be prepared! Take clothing and provisions for all weather possibilities – the weather can change in a matter of an hour from beautiful sunshine and warm temperatures, to snow and sub-zero temperatures.
• Moderate to good fitness required – at least 4.5 to 5 hours total walking required, with an altitude gain of 700m.
• Suitable for children from about 8 years and over.
• Tell someone where you’re going, and what time to expect you back.
• Fill in the hut visitor’s books – it could save your life.
• Take a map – NZ Topographical map BK36 Taoroa Junction refers, which can be purchased from Sportsworld or Dave Hern in Waipukurau.

For now we’ve listed only those hiking trails around the Hawke’s Bay area in the North Island of New Zealand, which is where I currently live (in Waipukurau) and do my hiking frequently. Being from Cape Town originally however, and having family there I still visit every few years, I have covered most of the hiking trails in the mountains around the Western Cape as well.

It is my wish to provide information to assist hikers and walkers to enjoy the beauty of creation, to marvel at nature whilst getting good exercise too. Join me…